Tag: chemicals

Phaseout Program

bluesign CMR Solvent Phaseout Program

In a bid to enhance environmental performance and ensure consumer safety, we have launched a comprehensive phaseout program for critical solvents. Since its inception in September 2021, this initiative has gained traction among our system partner manufacturers, aiming to mitigate the adverse effects of hazardous substances.

CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction) substances such as Dimethylformamide or Toluene pose significant risks to human health, particularly in industries like textile manufacturing, footwear production, and accessory manufacturing. To address these concerns, bluesign’s CMR solvent management concept advocates for the use of less hazardous alternatives and emphasizes non-regrettable substitution with water-based processes emerging as a viable solution.

As of January 1, 2022, manufacturers failing to comply with the CMR solvent management concept are barred from joining the bluesign® SYSTEM, underscoring our commitment to sustainability standards.

We at bluesign are pleased to report that a considerable number of its system partner manufacturers have already implemented the necessary measures well ahead of the previously stated 2024 deadline. This proactive approach has received praise from industry leaders like Mikio Umekawa, Managing Director at system partner Japanese manufacturer Tecone Co., Ltd. highlighting the significance of environmental stewardship in corporate management.

“Proactive efforts for environmental issues are an essential factor for our future corporate management and this has a significant impact on our vision as a textile finishing manufacturer that plays an important role in the apparel industry. It is also fact that manufacturing itself places a burden on the environment. It is a company’s mission and social responsibility to continuously decrease the resource consumption of wastewater, air emission and waste, etc. We believe that it will also contribute to further development of our company.
TECONE Co., Ltd. conducted the bluesign® ASSESSMENT in 2019 and decided to install RTO in order to reduce VOCs in the surrounding environment. Our core product is breathable and has waterproof film. In order to bring new products to market quickly, we decided that it was extremely important to install RTO to improve our manufacturing system and reduce the impact on the environment.”

Mikio Umekawa, Managing Director of Tecone Co., Ltd.

Despite this progress, we emphasize the need for full industry adoption of the CMR solvent concept. Revised timelines have been established for manufacturers currently in the implementation phase to ensure alignment with sustainability goals.

Important deadlines regarding certification of bluesign® APPROVED articles have also been outlined, focusing on compliance with CMR solvent management principles.

■ As of January 1, 2024: Certificates granted only for articles produced at production sites which comply with the CMR solvent management concept or for which an improvement plan exists.

■ As of January 1, 2027: Certificates granted only for articles which are produced at production sites which comply with the CMR solvent management concept.

For companies that have not changed to less hazardous solvent alternatives or water-based processes the following actions are mandatory according to the bluesign CMR solvent management concept:

■ Install an off-gas abatement system with an efficiency for CMR solvent(s) of at least 95% or a TOC concentration in the off-gas of less than 10 mg/m³ (all relevant emission ports) or install a recycling system with an efficiency for CMR solvents of 95% or more.

Our team extends its appreciation to all brand system partners committed to environmental sustainability. As a partner in this endeavor, bluesign emphasizes the importance of strategic investments in sustainability, despite potential material price increases. Collaboration between brands and manufacturers is crucial for the successful implementation of advanced machinery and technologies aimed at avoiding and capturing toxic fumes and reducing environmental impact.

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Transforming Waste into Fashion

Transforming Waste into Fashion with SYSTEM PARTNER ERCA Group

We Celebrate ERCA’s Brand REVECOL®: Transforming Waste into Sustainable Fashion with the help of Patagonia and YKK

Today, we proudly announce a groundbreaking development that is set to revolutionize the fashion-making process. ERCA, a key player in the sector and an Italian innovation-driven chemical group, has introduced a game-changing innovation under the brand name REVECOL®.

January 2024 marks the official birth of ERCA TCS (Textile Chemical Solutions), a business unit of ERCA S.p.A. with a focus on the textile market.

The decision to give birth to ERCA TCS comes from the desire to be a unique and innovative reference point for ERCA’s customers, with products and services designed specifically for the needs of today’s textile industry, grappling with the challenges and opportunities of sustainability and responsible production.

ERCA TCS bases its activities on the principles of “Green Chemistry” with the aim of offering the textile industry chemical solutions that make the concepts of safety, performance and circularity a reality.

The chemical auxiliaries of ERCA TCS are the result of a vision that incorporates responsible innovation, continuous research, and a desire to off er to the market effective yet ethically, environmentally, and economically sustainable solutions. Fabio Locatelli, Head of BU Textile and shareholder of ERCA explains:

“Our goal is to make ERCA TCS a reference point for sustainable innovation and help reduce the environmental impact of the textile industry by adopting innovative and truly sustainable solutions and services. A commitment to people’s well-being and responsible use of our planet’s resources has always been part of our DNA. We are always looking for innovative solutions through the development of products that are increasingly high-performing, competitive and sustainable at the same time”.

Fabio Locatelli, Head of BU Textile and shareholder of ERCA

REVECOL® by ERCA represents a paradigm shift in textile auxiliaries. This revolutionary line of chemical products is bluesign® APPROVED and derives its strength from the upcycling of a critical waste material: vegetable exhausted cooking oil. The result is a complete, safe, certified, and high-performing range of auxiliaries that promises to reshape the industry.

This innovative approach by ERCA not only underscores their commitment to environmental responsibility but also elevates their status as pioneers in sustainable textile solutions. By harnessing waste materials and turning them into valuable resources, REVECOL® addresses the ever-pressing need for circularity and sustainability in fashion production.

“The launch of REVECOL® by ERCA is a monumental step forward for the textile industry. This breakthrough innovation perfectly aligns with our mission to create a more sustainable and responsible fashion-making process. ERCA has indeed filled a crucial gap with this initiative.”

Fabian Walda, Head of Sustainability Services at bluesign

REVECOL® serves as the missing piece to boost sustainability and circularity throughout the fashion-making process. ERCA’s unwavering commitment to innovation, safety, and environmental protection is embodied in this product line, making it a symbol of progress in an industry striving for a greener future. We at bluesign applauds ERCA for its vision and dedication to transforming the industry. REVECOL® by ERCA is more than just a product; it’s a testament to the positive change that can occur when sustainability and innovation converge.

bluesign’s Carbon Footprint Calculation Reveals Remarkable Results

Thanks to our carbon footprint calculation and bluesign verified data, we are thrilled to announce that the carbon footprint of REVECOL®LV-TS is 72% lower than conventional chemical auxiliaries produced by ERCA. ERCA takes pride in being the first company in the world to have GRS certified chemical products, paving the way for circular chemical solutions, while also being bluesign® APPROVED.

Thanks to our carbon footprint calculation and bluesign verified data, we are thrilled to announce that the carbon footprint of REVECOL®LV-TS is 72% lower than conventional chemical auxiliaries produced by ERCA. ERCA takes pride in being the first company in the world to have GRS certified chemical products, paving the way for circular chemical solutions, while also being bluesign® APPROVED.

“We saw an opportunity to build a partnership with ERCA, an innovator who was pushing the boundaries of sustainability, and match them with an existing partner, YKK, that consistently delivers high-caliber, quality goods and services. Through thoughtful consideration, we designed our approach and conversion to REVECOL® LV-TS to have an outsized impact from the start. The real success is seeing this go beyond Patagonia® products and spread across supply chain partners, brands, and consumers. This is one domino to fall in how we do business to save our home planet.”

Matt Swartz, Color and Material Quality Manager at Patagonia®

“We are thrilled to be part of this unique 3‐way collaboration, exemplifying how true upcycling on a mass production scale is made possible at the center of garment manufacturing. We look forward to the expansion of REVECOL® across the entire textile industry.”

Mike Maekawa, Sales and Business Development Manager of YKK Vietnam

As part of its Sustainability Vision 2050 YKK is constantly working to deploy more sustainable chemical processes in its production. REVECOL® is not only more sustainable it is also more efficient, reducing the use of the dyeing auxiliary by 20% to 30%, helping to lower YKK’s overall chemical usage.

Development of the REVECOL® Line by ERCA’s Textile BU

The REVECOL® line was developed by ERCA’s Textile BU, which includes a research and development center, production facilities, quality control laboratory, and application laboratories and technical assistance. This levelling agent was registered together with bluesign and approved by European Union IPPC as a Best Available Technique for textile industry and is listed accordingly in the BAT reference Document (BREF). Fabio Locatelli, Head of BU Textile and shareholder of ERCA, emphasized the company’s commitment to people’s well-being and the planet’s resources, stating,

“We are always looking for innovative solutions through the development of products that are increasingly high-performing and sustainable at the same time. Our goal is to be a point of reference for sustainability and help reduce the environmental impact of the textile industry by adopting truly sustainable innovative solutions and services. We aim to counter the ‘Greenwashing monster’ that often uses communication or marketing strategies that tend to present activities as eco-sustainable. In short, our aim is to counteract a facade of ecology. If you can’t prove your claims, you are not credible, and this is unacceptable to us.”

Fabio Locatelli, Head of BU Textile and shareholder of ERCA

Dedicated Research and Development for Product Credibility

To ensure the value and credibility of their products, ERCA dedicates significant work, expertise, and time to research and development. Each product undergoes 6-8 months of study and fine-tuning, followed by an additional 6 months for fundamental analyses such as biodegradability and aquatic toxicity, conducted at specialized centers. bluesign’s third-party verified data is then obtained to independently testify to the real measure of the value of these products.

ERCA Spa Achieves GRS Certification

ERCA Spa, with the REVECOL® range, is the first chemical company in the world to obtain the prestigious GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certificate, conferred by Textile Exchange, one of the most important non-profit organizations promoting responsible and sustainable practices in garment manufacturing.

bluesign Supports ERCA’s Groundbreaking Development

bluesign enthusiastically supports the groundbreaking development achieved by ERCA with the introduction of REVECOL®. As the gold standard for more sustainable textile production, we are dedicated to promoting innovative and sustainable solutions in the industry. With ERCA’s REVECOL® and the collaboration of leading companies like Patagonia® and YKK, the possibility to reduce the environmental impact of the textile industry becomes more attainable.

The following report details the Product Carbon Footprint (PCF) analysis performed by bluesign® ACADEMY on the following chemical products manufactured by ERCA S.p.A. in Italy: REVECOL® LV-TS and STD LAUGAL HLT. For example, these products are comparable in terms of function and performance, whereas REVECOL® LV-TS utilizes approximately 40% recycled feedstock in the chemical formulation. STD LAUGALHLT relies solely on virgin feedstock. This product carbon footprint analysis measures the environmental impact in terms of the overall global warming potential (GWP) of the products along their life cycle from cradle to customer.

In conclusion, the product carbon footprint calculation at hand shows that the GWP of REVECOL LV-TS is significantly lower than the GWP of STD LAUGAL HLT. It is clear that the main reason for this is the replacement of virgin feedstock with recycled feedstock in the chemical formulation of REVECOL® LV-TS. It can be concluded that REVECOL LV-TS has about a 72 % lower GWP compared to STD LAUGAL HLT.

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bluesign CEO Joins Board

Our CEO Daniel Rüfenacht Joins the Founders Board at Transformer’s Foundation

We are pleased to announce that our CEO, Daniel Rüfenacht, has joined the Founders Board at the Transformers Foundation, a non-profit organization representing a unified voice for the denim industry accelerating more sustainable practices.

As a global leader in sustainable solutions with a focus on mitigating hazardous chemical use through Input Stream Management across the textile supply chain, bluesign is committed to promoting environmentally friendly and socially responsible manufacturing practices. Rüfenacht’s appointment to the Founders Board is a testament to bluesign’s long-standing dedication to reducing environmental impacts with a renewed focus on the denim supply chain.

The most significant issues in denim manufacturing occur in the dyeing and laundry processes where the highest amounts of water, energy, and chemicals are used. Together with the Transformers Foundation, bluesign aims to link chemical suppliers, textile manufacturers, garment makers, and laundries together with the brands to foster a healthy, responsible, and profitable textile industry.

bluesign CEO Joins Board

“I am honored to join the Founders Board and work with like-minded individuals and organizations to drive the improvements needed to make systemic change. Bluesign’s mission is to provide service-based solutions, including impact reduction, that help the industry realize responsible manufacturing with better and more sustainable chemicals. I look forward to contributing to the Transformers Foundation’s efforts and enhancing bluesign’s focus on our clean denim goal.”

Daniel Rüfenacht, CEO of bluesign

The Transformers Foundation was founded in 2020 to provide a thus-far missing platform to the jeans and denim supply chain, and a central point of contact for consumers, brands, NGOs, and media who want to learn more about ethics and sustainable innovation in the industry. It brings together innovators, entrepreneurs,

“We at the Transformers Foundation are pleased to welcome bluesign on the board of Founders. Their commitment to sustainability and responsible sourcing aligns with our mission to create positive impact through education and celebration of best practice. With bluesign’s expertise and passion, we are confident that together, we can make the denim industry a better place for all.”

Andrew Olah, Founder of Transformers Foundation

Rüfenacht’s appointment to the Founders Board at Transformers Foundation further cements bluesign’s commitment to advancing the implementation of processes, such as Input Stream Management, to reduce the denim supply chain’s impact on people and the environment.

About Transformers Board

Transformers Foundation is the unified voice representing the denim industry and its ideas for positive change. It was founded to provide a thus-far missing platform to the jeans and denim supply chain, and a central point of contact for consumers, brands, NGOs, and media who want to learn more about ethics and sustainable innovation in the industry.

We represent the denim supply chain: from farmers and chemical suppliers to denim mills and jeans factories. www.transformersfoundation.org

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EU Green Deal

EU Green Deal
The EU Is Implementing Its Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability Find Out How bluesign Can Help

EU Green Deal and the Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability

The European Green Deal (EGD) is a set of initiatives all 27 EU Member States are committed to with the main goal to transform the EU into a modern, resource-efficient, and competitive economy.

Within the green deal a specific strategy for chemicals has been developed under the action sector ‘Environment and oceans’ with the title ‘Chemicals strategy for sustainability’. Main objectives are:

■ Better protect citizens and the environment

■ Boost innovation for safe and sustainable chemicals

■ Enable the transition to chemicals that are safe and sustainable by design

Close to a hundred detail actions under several key topics have been defined in the ‘Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability’ in order to achieve the strategy targets. Some of them will have a direct impact on current regulations and directives such as:

■ REACH (EC 1907/2006, ‘Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of chemicals’)

■ CLP (EC 1272/2008, ‘Classification, Labelling and Packaging of Substances and Mixtures’)

■ IED (2010/75/EU, ‘Industrial Emission Directive’)

■ Ecodesign directive (2009/125/EC)

■ General product safety directive1 (2001/95/EC)

We would like to shed light on selected actions in defined focus areas which may have major relevance for the textile chemical / textile industry and propose how bluesign may help the textile supply chain to cope with the expected challenges.

Safe And Sustainable Design

What are key initiatives of the Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability?

■ The EU is developing sustainable-by-design criteria for chemicals to give guidance for substituting substances of concern and to consider sustainability parameters looking at the product’s life cycle.

■ Key Performance Indicators to measure the industrial transition towards the production of safe and sustainable chemicals shall be introduced.

■ A revision of the industrial emission directive (2010/75/EU) shall help to promote the use of safer chemicals by industry in the EU by requiring on-site risk assessments and by restricting the use of substances of very high concern.

How can bluesign support?

■ The bluesign® TOOL may be used as a design aid for safe and sustainable chemistry by chemical companies. Candidate chemical formulations can be assessed in the development phase against restricted substances lists (MRSL, RSL) and undesired product hazards. Most relevant exposure scenarios are calculated (worker, consumer, air and water) to assure safe use. With the wholistic assessment, formulations with unfavorable properties can be sorted out.

■ bluesign is currently extending its CRITERIA for sustainable chemistry addressing responsible sourcing, corporate sustainability, carbon footprint, degradability, recycled content, resource efficiency and other aspect of circular economy. Sustainability attributes will be shown in the bluesign® FINDER, a positive list for safe and sustainable chemistry.

■ To track the transition of chemical companies towards production of safe and sustainable chemistry, bluesign suggests to communicate the companies’ share of bluesign® APPROVED chemicals in their portfolio.

■ bluesign’s chemical change program for textile manufacturers aims at replacing non-assessed and non-rated chemistry with a safer and sustainable alternative (bluesign® APPROVED = SVHC free). It will be an adequate response to the upcoming ‘industrial emission directive (2010/75/EU)’ revision that shall promote the use of safe and sustainable chemistry.

Protection Against Most Harmful Chemical

What is/are key initiatives of the Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability?

■ The strategy suggests to develop a roadmap to prioritise carcinogenic, mutagenic and reprotoxic substances (CMRs), endocrine disruptors, persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT and very persistent and very bioaccumulative (vPvB) substances, immunotoxicants, neurotoxicants, substances toxic to specific organs and respiratory sensitisers for (group) restrictions under REACH.

■ The intended group restriction approach means that substances would automatically be restricted once there is evidence that they fall into one of the mentioned hazard classes.

How can bluesign support?

■ The extended set of hazards that will come under scrutiny combined with the intended group restriction approach will pose new challenges to the (chemical)industry. The most efficient approach would be to run detailed substance related hazard assessments on chemical product level. bluesign can offer tailor-made hazard assessments to make sure consumer products won’t contain substances with those hazards of concern.

Endocrine Disruptors

What is/are key initiatives of the Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability?

■ Propose to establish legally binding hazard identification of endocrine disruptors.

■ Ensure that endocrine disruptors are banned in consumer products as soon as they are identified, allowing their use only where it is proven to be essential for society.

■ Strengthen workers’ protection by introducing endocrine disruptors as a category of substances of very high concern under REACH.

How can bluesign support?

■ By checking chemical formulations with a hazard assessment approach that is linked to the substance property database ‘bluesign®
NAVIGATOR’, substances that are classified as endocrine disruptors can be identified and cut out. That will support chemical suppliers and textile manufacturers to fulfill their future legal obligation on endocrine disruptors.

PFAS (Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances)

What is/are key initiatives of the Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability?

■ Proposal to restrict PFAS under REACH for all non-essential uses including in consumer products.

■ Address PFAS concerns on a global scale through the relevant international for and in bilateral policy dialogues with third countries.

How can bluesign support?

■ To be ahead of the upcoming restrictions and to be a driver of detoxing the textile supply chain bluesign plans the following actions:

■ As of July 2023 all existing bluesign® APPROVED PFAS containing formulations will be removed from the bluesign® FINDER
■ As of July 2024 all bluesign® APPROVED fabrics that are treated with PFAS formulations will be removed from bluesign® GUIDE

Information Requirements (IMPACT)

What is/are key initiatives of the Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability?

■ It will be assessed how to best introduce information requirements under REACH on the overall environmental footprint of chemicals, including on emissions of greenhouse gases.

How can bluesign support?

■ It is to be expected that reporting footprint data on chemical product level will become mandatory under REACH. bluesign can assist chemical suppliers to calculate or verify their product related footprint data including GHG emission equivalents (CO2eq).

Zero Tolerance for Non-Compliance

What is/are key initiatives of the Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability?

■ Propose to entrust the Commission with the duty to carry out audits in Member States, where relevant, to ensure compliance and enforcement of chemicals legislation, in particular REACH, and use infringement procedures as necessary.

■ Target known areas of high risk of non-compliance, in particular online sales, imported articles, classifi cation and labelling and restrictions.

How can bluesign support?

■ The EU has decided to put emphasis on enforcing the REACH regulation with no tolerance for non-compliance. Chemical companies will need to invest more into assuring regulatory compliance (product safety) to lower business risk. Especially suppliers of imported products may face increased scrutiny as they are known to have a higher risk of non-compliance. bluesign can help lower risk of non-compliances as SYSTEM PARTNERS are regularly assessed with regard to product safety and legal compliance (e.g. restricted substance monitoring, Safety Data Sheet authoring).

  1. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32001L0095&from=EN ↩︎
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